With the final issue of British Vogue headed by Editor in Chief Titan Edward Enninful, it was only SHORTLY followed by the announced departure of Margaret Zhang, the Editor-In-Chief of Vogue China, and the youngest ever to hold the title under the Vogue Umbrella. 

SEE: Influencer-turned-editor Margaret Zhang to Exit Vogue China

One can’t help but to feel and immense loss with these departures. Both known for championing diversity and innovation within their tenures, I can only wonder if these departures mean we are moving forward or backward? 

In her open letter announcing her departure from Vogue and Condé Nast, she talks about her achievements towards innovation and radical changes made while under the position including springboarding careers of aspiring Chinese models and designers through the Vogue China Fashion Fund and Showcasing Chinese creativity to the world. 

Her exit comes with polarizing reactions with opposing viewpoints on her work that an anthropologist or data analyst, or someone like me who has feet in both of these worlds and an immense interest on this topic would drool over having the opportunity to cover it. 

Maybe one day, especially after the dust settles and all perspectives realized, I can create a full on investigation. 

Anyways! In addition to her efforts in diversity, her cover work and creativity in the editorial was what was admired of her the most. Although it did host some controversy (SEE — Zhang in hot water over unsponsored covers), many were drawn to the covers on an international scale, although many were skeptical in the beginning.

SEE: The initial backlash Margaret Zhang got at her appointment news

Her two perspectives – as an Australian born Chinese woman — helped to visualize the China to the world mindset that international audience seemed to resonate with heavily. 

But to Chinese audiences, that same view set was seen as detrimental instead. Many of her intended audience felt it kept her isolated from the culture, and the Westernization of her views couldn’t allow her to fully understand what the Chinese fashion public wanted

“It was really dangerous to have such a person be the editorial director of Vogue China. Why? Because she has been growing up and living in Australia and overseas, her understanding of China is too superficial and limited,”

Former Conde Nast China president Sophia Liao

She was hired to bring the digital age to the forefront — but is that even still the goal?

Edward Enninful was also an IMMENSE talent that saw the effects of the ongoing mass Condé Nast shuffle.

Many speculate on whether his move was a promotion, or perhaps a demotion? Was this a ploy to set him up as the new global Editor in Chief, or simple a power play by Anna Wintour in true Devil Wears Prada fashion, as it seemed like he was working to try and take her spot?

Ghana born (come on Uncle!) model and designer – turned Editor in Chief, Enninful was similar to Zhang in the way they were selected and appointed more for their future forward thinking that Vogue was working towards – rather than looking for someone with the most editorial experience. 

Edward was a TITAN in my eyes, creating incredible covers and securing iconic and history making moments – such as a rare interview and editorial from Beyonce, as well as having Rihanna grace the cover of British Vogue for the first time in the Magazine’s history with a durag, at the height of the Black Lives Matter movement. 

SEE: Timothée Chalamet Is British Vogue’s First Solo Male Cover Star

Edward also made headlines for his dedication to visibility for all, releasing his accessibility issue in May of 2023, featuring five disabled talents and releasing the issue in Braille as well. 

With the loss of these two icons, we cannot help but to wonder truly if these moves are an indication of further innovation to come, or rollback on the creativity and inclusivity that made things fun in the first place? (If only for a short while) Simply to focus more on the BUSINESS — rather than creative — aspect of Vogue magazine. 

“[but I always say], now the real work begins behind the scenes, behind the cameras, in studios around the world. That needs to be the conversation that will make sure that diversity and inclusion still carries on.”

Edward Enninful

Even moving forward, the title of Editor in Chief is going away. Anna Wintour herself has been appointed Global Editorial Director, and Edward Enninful’s successor will be coming in with a new title of Director of Editorial Content for British Vogue, reporting to Anna Wintour herself.

SEE: The Disappearing Title of Magazine Editor in Chief

You can see Edward Enninful’s final cover here, highlighting 40 of the top women he worked with while being the head of British Vogue.

sources:

1. Editor of Vogue China to leave in latest senior Condé Nast exit
2. Why Margaret Zhang Leaving Vogue China Is Controversial
3. https://models.com/people/margaret-zhang/1/year/magazine
4. https://models.com/people/edward-enninful/1/year/magazine